Author Archives: thegreatbelzoni

Encounters with a Man called Snake. Part 4.

Tuesday 13th January 2015 When I reach New Qurna I am surprised at how “established” this new town on the edge of the desert has become in less than seven years. Despite receiving Emad’s directions on Facebook Messenger earlier in … Continue reading

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A First Visit to the Temple of Amun at Karnak

It is no exaggeration to say that I had thought, and dreamed, of Karnak pretty regularly since first seeing a picture of the great hypostyle hall in a newspaper supplement while waiting outside a fish and chip shop one day in the … Continue reading

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A Walk Through Old Cairo

Friday 28th October, 2011. One week after the serious violence between Christians and Muslims on the streets of Cairo known as “The Maspero Massacre” That morning Mohammed picks up Pauline, Liz and me from our apartment near the Pyramids at … Continue reading

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 3)

[360-degree video taken on the “Farshut Road”, four miles (seven kilometres) in a direct line from the Valley of the Kings, 11th January 2015]    

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 2)

Wolves? In a desert country like Egypt? As we’d sped along the Cairo to Aswan road the day before, I thought it might be a mistranslation from Thore’s native Norwegian. “Did you see it Ahmed? Bigger than a dog I … Continue reading

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday January 11th, 2015 Following a 5.30 breakfast I head towards the ferry, my breath rising up before me in the cold morning air. One of the men huddled by a brazier offers to call me a taxi and I … Continue reading

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In the Footsteps of David Roberts (2): Around Aswan

Few 19th-century artists did more to popularise travel in Egypt than Edinburgh-born David Roberts. His work managed to convey not just the romantic spirit of sites up and down the Nile, but to capture much of the architectural and decorative … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 3)

Sunday 19th December 2010 My long-term plan for the Theban Plateau is to take the ancient track known as the Farshut Road right across the Qena Bend in the Nile river. From my research I know for definite of only … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 2)

Sunday 19th December 2010 The path from the summit ridge of el-Qurn to the main plateau first descends a ‘col’ between the two high points then winds its way up the other side. The distance turns out to be far … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday 19th December 2010 I am up well before dawn, feeling refreshed from my rest day. From the new ferry point I get a battered old taxi owned by one of those battered old Egyptians that I seem to get … Continue reading

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