Category Archives: Ancient

A First Visit to the Temple of Amun at Karnak

It is no exaggeration to say that I had thought, and dreamed, of Karnak pretty regularly since first seeing a picture of the great hypostyle hall in a newspaper supplement while waiting outside a fish and chip shop one day in the … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 2)

Sunday 19th December 2010 The path from the summit ridge of el-Qurn to the main plateau first descends a ‘col’ between the two high points then winds its way up the other side. The distance turns out to be far … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday 19th December 2010 I am up well before dawn, feeling refreshed from my rest day. From the new ferry point I get a battered old taxi owned by one of those battered old Egyptians that I seem to get … Continue reading

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Into the Mummy Pit

“Of some of these tombs many persons could not withstand the suffocating air, which often causes fainting. A vast quantity of dust rises, so fine that it enters into the throat and nostrils, and chokes the nose and mouth to … Continue reading

Posted in Ancient, Egypt, Giovanni Battista Belzoni, Luxor / Thebes, People, Tombs | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Not Just a Nurse

Karnak, February 1850 “On the wall of the propylon is Seti, kneeling, and offering himself in the form of a little figure which is eagerly bending forward on its knees. Immediately beyond this, as if in answer to this devoting … Continue reading

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A Descent to the Theban Underworld

Workers’ village of Deir el-Medina, Western Thebes, Sunday 3rd February 2008   It is now around 1 pm and I have a rare experience of turning up at a site when a significant number of tourists are already there. In … Continue reading

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Ascent to the Domain of the Moon God

Thoth Hill – apparently so-called after the great Egyptologist Flinders Petrie found a number of fragments dedicated to the god in the area – is one of the highest points of the Theban Hills. It lies on the other side … Continue reading

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Ramesses the Great

“What made Ramesses II great?” asked the new child-friendly item label in the British Museum gallery of Egyptian sculpture. The answer, according to the label, is that he was a great self-publicist. Well that’s a hard allegation to deny for … Continue reading

Posted in Ancient, Art, Egypt, Giovanni Battista Belzoni, Kings, Luxor / Thebes, People, Thomas De Quincey, Tombs | Tagged , | Leave a comment

In the Footsteps of Gods and Kings (4)

[Voice recording made 31st January 2008]

Posted in Ancient, Contemporary, Egypt, Landscape, Locations, Luxor / Thebes, Tombs, Valley of the Kings | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

In the Footsteps of Gods and Kings (3)

[31st January, 2008] It is still not 9.00 a.m. and I am literally high on solitude. After taking photos and making a digital voice recording for posterity, it is time to set off for my next destination, the tomb of … Continue reading

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