Category Archives: Luxor / Thebes

Encounters with a Man called Snake. Part 4.

Tuesday 13th January 2015 When I reach New Qurna I am surprised at how “established” this new town on the edge of the desert has become in less than seven years. Despite receiving Emad’s directions on Facebook Messenger earlier in … Continue reading

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A First Visit to the Temple of Amun at Karnak

It is no exaggeration to say that I had thought, and dreamed, of Karnak pretty regularly since first seeing a picture of the great hypostyle hall in a newspaper supplement while waiting outside a fish and chip shop one day in the … Continue reading

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 3)

[360-degree video taken on the “Farshut Road”, four miles (seven kilometres) in a direct line from the Valley of the Kings, 11th January 2015]    

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 2)

Wolves? In a desert country like Egypt? As we’d sped along the Cairo to Aswan road the day before, I thought it might be a mistranslation from Thore’s native Norwegian. “Did you see it Ahmed? Bigger than a dog I … Continue reading

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First Attempt at Crossing the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday January 11th, 2015 Following a 5.30 breakfast I head towards the ferry, my breath rising up before me in the cold morning air. One of the men huddled by a brazier offers to call me a taxi and I … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 3)

Sunday 19th December 2010 My long-term plan for the Theban Plateau is to take the ancient track known as the Farshut Road right across the Qena Bend in the Nile river. From my research I know for definite of only … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 2)

Sunday 19th December 2010 The path from the summit ridge of el-Qurn to the main plateau first descends a ‘col’ between the two high points then winds its way up the other side. The distance turns out to be far … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday 19th December 2010 I am up well before dawn, feeling refreshed from my rest day. From the new ferry point I get a battered old taxi owned by one of those battered old Egyptians that I seem to get … Continue reading

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Coming together

Luxor west bank, Tuesday 27th January, 2009 On Saturday Ahmed had suggested the idea of combining the Temple of Seti and the Tombs of the Nobles with a visit to the local market at Qurna where the people of the west … Continue reading

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Into the Mummy Pit

“Of some of these tombs many persons could not withstand the suffocating air, which often causes fainting. A vast quantity of dust rises, so fine that it enters into the throat and nostrils, and chokes the nose and mouth to … Continue reading

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