Category Archives: Monuments

A First Visit to the Temple of Amun at Karnak

It is no exaggeration to say that I had thought, and dreamed, of Karnak pretty regularly since first seeing a picture of the great hypostyle hall in a newspaper supplement while waiting outside a fish and chip shop one day in the … Continue reading

Posted in Ancient, Egypt, Locations, Luxor / Thebes, Temples | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

A Walk Through Old Cairo

Friday 28th October, 2011. One week after the serious violence between Christians and Muslims on the streets of Cairo known as “The Maspero Massacre” That morning Mohammed picks up Pauline, Liz and me from our apartment near the Pyramids at … Continue reading

Posted in Architecture, Cairo, Churches and monasteries, David Roberts, Egypt, Monuments, People | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

In the Footsteps of David Roberts (2): Around Aswan

Few 19th-century artists did more to popularise travel in Egypt than Edinburgh-born David Roberts. His work managed to convey not just the romantic spirit of sites up and down the Nile, but to capture much of the architectural and decorative … Continue reading

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First Venture onto the Theban Plateau (Part 1)

Sunday 19th December 2010 I am up well before dawn, feeling refreshed from my rest day. From the new ferry point I get a battered old taxi owned by one of those battered old Egyptians that I seem to get … Continue reading

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Into the Mummy Pit

“Of some of these tombs many persons could not withstand the suffocating air, which often causes fainting. A vast quantity of dust rises, so fine that it enters into the throat and nostrils, and chokes the nose and mouth to … Continue reading

Posted in Ancient, Egypt, Giovanni Battista Belzoni, Luxor / Thebes, People, Tombs | Tagged , , , , | 3 Comments

Not Just a Nurse

Karnak, February 1850 “On the wall of the propylon is Seti, kneeling, and offering himself in the form of a little figure which is eagerly bending forward on its knees. Immediately beyond this, as if in answer to this devoting … Continue reading

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A Descent to the Theban Underworld

Workers’ village of Deir el-Medina, Western Thebes, Sunday 3rd February 2008   It is now around 1 pm and I have a rare experience of turning up at a site when a significant number of tourists are already there. In … Continue reading

Posted in Ancient, Art, Egypt, Luxor / Thebes, Monuments, Tombs | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

A Castle in the Sands (Part 2)

Aswan, 25th January 2009 The final approach to the monastery of St Simeon, down a perfect dune of golden sand, is sublime, and accompanied in my earphones by the crescendo in the soundtrack to The English Patient, the part where … Continue reading

Posted in Architecture, Aswan, Churches and monasteries, Egypt, Landscape, Locations, Monuments, Thomas De Quincey | Tagged | 1 Comment

A Castle in the Sands (Part 1)

Aswan, 25th January 2009 Even in this breeze the climb is hard work, a combination of loose, fine sand and shattered rock reminding me at first of some half-forgotten Cornish dune from my childhood. Looking back the way I have … Continue reading

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Ascent to the Domain of the Moon God

Thoth Hill – apparently so-called after the great Egyptologist Flinders Petrie found a number of fragments dedicated to the god in the area – is one of the highest points of the Theban Hills. It lies on the other side … Continue reading

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